Surfing was always a big bucket list item for me. When I was in high school, I was obsessed with the movie Blue Crush. I would dream of flying off to Hawaii, living the beach bum life and going surfing every morning, just like Kate Bosworth.
On a trip to Eleuthera, Bahamas I finally got the chance to live out my teenage fantasy. From everything I’d heard, I knew surfing would be difficult and I wouldn’t be turning pro anytime soon. But I thought maybe since I’ve been snowboarding several times, and was pretty good, that it wouldn’t be too horrible. Boy was I wrong!
The day started off great as we arrived at Surfer’s Beach, on the Atlantic side of Eleuthera. There were a decent amount of waves, but they weren’t too huge as to scare off a beginner like me. A friend who lived on the island, and is an avid surfer was going to take us out and show us the ropes. First, we each picked a board and took the obligatory “standing with your surfboard” pictures.
That right there should have been my first clue. I could barely hold the board in my short, puny arms. After a brief introduction on the how-to’s and the how not to’s, we headed out to the water. I ran in, I was sure I looked just like Kate Bosworth or Michelle Rodriguez and started paddling my little heart out. Once we finally made it past the break and my arms sufficiently recovered, my friend was trying to teach us how to push ourselves up to sitting and kick spin to turn for a wave. Well, to be honest, I never got past the sitting part.
The pulling myself up to sitting was not the problem; it was the staying on the board while sitting part I had difficulty with. Every time I pulled myself up I would wobble back in forth, for a good 30 seconds, before I finally tipped over one side or the other. It was a hilarious sight to see, trying to talk myself out of falling off the board. “No no no no no,” I would yell at myself before gravity finally won out.
My friend suggested switching to a different (nicer) board and with that I managed to sit upright on the board for a solid 5 minutes or so at a time before I would fall off. Deciding to see that as a success, I called it a day.
Even though my day isn’t what you would call a conventional successful day of surfing I had a great time. I am not giving up on living out my Blue Crush fantasies and will definitely give surfing another try. In the wise words of my friend, “even if you don’t catch any waves, relaxing in the majestic blue ocean ain’t a bad way to spend your day.”
Have you ever gone surfing before, were you better at it than I was?